Follow the recipe for Charcoal-Grilled Chicken alla Diavola through step 3. Turn all of the burners on a gas grill to high, close the lid, and heat until the grill is very hot, about 15 minutes. Scrape the grill grate clean with a wire brush; lightly dip a small wad of paper towels in vegetable oil and, holding the wad in tongs, wipe the grill grate. Turn all burners to medium-low, position the chicken skin-side down on the center of the grill grate, cover, and continue with the recipe from step 5.

Charcoal-Grilled Chicken alla Diavola

Serves 3 to 4
Before building the fire, make sure that the grill is cleaned of residual ash from previous use; if left in the bottom, residual ash catches fat drippings and causes flare-ups that can singe the chicken. For this recipe, we prefer the even, slower heat generated by charcoal briquettes over faster-burning hardwood charcoal.

Chicken and brine
2 medium garlic heads
3 bay leaves, crumbled
1⁄2 cup salt
1 whole chicken (3 to 3 1⁄2 pounds), butterflied and pounded.
Garlic-pepper oil
4 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 4 teaspoons)
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1⁄4 cup olive oil

Vegetable oil for grill grate
1 lemon, cut into wedges, for serving

1. To brine the chicken: Combine the garlic heads, bay leaves, and salt in a gallon-size zipper-lock bag; press out the air and seal the bag. Using a rubber mallet or meat pounder, pound the mixture until the garlic cloves are crushed; transfer the mixture to a large container or stockpot and stir in 2 quarts cold water until the salt is dissolved. Immerse the chicken in the brine and refrigerate until fully seasoned, about 2 hours.

2. For the garlic-pepper oil: While the chicken is brining, heat the garlic, black pepper, pepper flakes, and oil in a small saucepan over medium heat until the garlic is fragrant and sizzling and the mixture registers about 200 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature, about 40 minutes. Measure 2 tablespoons garlic-pepper oil into 2 small bowls and set aside.

3. To flavor the chicken: Remove the chicken from the brine and thoroughly pat dry with paper towels. Slip your fingers underneath the skin of the breast and legs to loosen the membrane and rub 2 tablespoons of the infused oil beneath the skin.

4. To grill the chicken: Light a large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (about 6 quarts) and allow to burn until all the charcoal is covered with a layer of fine gray ash. Empty the coals into the grill and bank half of the coals on either side of the grill, leaving the midsection of the grill free of coals. Set the cooking rack in place, cover the grill with the lid, and let the rack heat up, about 5 minutes. Use a wire brush to scrape clean the cooking rack. Lightly dip a small wad of paper towels in vegetable oil; holding the wad with tongs, wipe the grill rack. Position the chicken skin-side down on the grill rack over the area with no coals; cover the grill and fully open the lid vents.